THE LOWDOWN

Hidden away in the charmingly pretty Fishpool St, a stone’s throw from the centre of bustling St Albans, St Michael’s Manor is a little oasis of calm and luxury. One of no fewer than 70 listed buildings in the historic St Michael’s district, the original townhouse dates back to the 16th century and features 30 uniquely designed bedrooms, from humble doubles to grand suites.

The modest five acre gardens, (by that we mean you won’t need to pack your walking boots to explore them), back on to the River Ver and Verulamium Park, and feature a picturesque lake and jetty, which makes an ideal spot for sundowners and wildlife watching – we spied a heron eyeing up its next catch and a cormorant diving for its dinner as we sipped on Aperol spritz in the sunshine.

THE VIBE

St Michael’s Manor is grand without showing off about it. A sweeping staircase in the entrance hall gives way to an ornate plaster moulded ceiling; floor-to-ceiling sash windows flood the elegant lounge with light, and an attractive oak-panelled lounge (the most original part of the building) makes an ideal setting for meetings or intimate weddings. It has all the trappings of a country retreat but on an appealingly reduced scale, and with just 30 rooms you won’t get lost in an endless labyrinth of corridors to find your bed for the night (even after a drink or two!).

The décor is classic and contemporary but doesn’t clash with the period features and the modern additions to the building blend so seamlessly with the original property that it almost feels like they’ve always been there. The Orangery restaurant and across-the-terrace bar area feel perfectly in keeping (in a Bridgerton-esque way!) whilst offering uniterrupted views of the gardens.

Whilst, naturally, St Michael’s Manor is a popular wedding destination, there was a 50th birthday event going on during our stay, as well as some customers in black tie sipping their pre-event drinks on the sun-filled terrace, and evening diners included non-residents, so it’s clearly a popular destination for all manner of celebrations for locals, too.

PILLOW TALK

Each of the 30 uniquely designed and recently refurbished rooms are named after trees that you’ll find in the private garden. There’s a range from deluxe and premier doubles to luxury manor house and garden wing rooms, plus a bridal suite and an executive suite – Magnolia – where we stayed. The stunning suite featured a bedroom with an extremely comfortable king size bed, spacious and calming living area with high ceilings, and large bathroom with walk-in shower and separate bath, not to mention the views from the huge sash windows over the gardens and lake.

The décor was mix of contemporary – think striking feature wallpaper – with elegant touches, such as a chandeliers, ornate mirrors and ochre velvet sofas. We were also treated to a lovely fresh fruit bowl with chocoloate dipped strawberries, on arrival, for an extra special touch. Tea and coffee making facilities, TVs in both rooms, and a hairdryer were all provided, but no fridge or minibar, should you wish to stow anything during your stay – luckily the actual bar is not far to go though.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Aperitif? There must be few better settings to enjoy one than overlooking a lake in the sunshine. An Aperol Spritz and Gin & Tonic (of which there were a good variety to choose from), were just the refreshments we needed to shake off a busy week and kickstart our getaway. Incidentally, the bar also has a wide range of whiskeys too, if that’s your drop, as well as a small selection of classic cocktails.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the Orangery restaurant (with afternoon tea in the elegant lounge). The kitchen is headed up by former Cavendish London chef, Nitin Pawar, who joined the St Michael’s Manor team in 2023. The menus are contemporary British with a hint of Indian flavour. Read my interview with Chef Nitin, here for more.

For dinner we opted for Wagyu Air Dried Bresaola Beef with Horseradish, Pickled Onion and Fried Capers (for my meat-eating husband), and Grilled Asparagus with Preserved Lemon, Poached Egg and Hollandaise pour moi. My plate was vibrant, flavourful and well-balanced…

For mains, my husband plumped for Grilled Swordfish with Purple Potato, Gooseberries, Chilli Jam and Dill Oil. Another colourful combination which popped on the plate…

My vegetarian option was Linguine with Truffle Cream, Wild Mushroom and Parmesan – rich and satisfying, and cut through with a Pomegranate salad on the side.

My personal highlight though – surprisingly as I’m not usually a dessert fan – was the Orange and Lemon Posset. Sharply citrussy and deliciously creamy, yet light, and so very moreish. I gobbled it down too quickly to get a snap!Across the table my husband enjoyed the theatre of a Chocolate Avalanche – Chocolate Sponge, Pistachio Ice Cream and Honeycomb, hidden beneath a milk chocolate dome which revealed all when melted under the hot chocolate sauce. We washed it all down with a light and elegant bottle of Fleurie.

A good night’s sleep in that comfy bed later and we were back for breakfast – a decent buffet with cereal, pastries, fresh fruits and juices, and table service for hot food. Eggs Royale were order of the day for my husband (and I quote: ‘one of the best’ he’s ever had), and I requested a vegetarian cooked breakfast that wasn’t on the menu (however, the staff were only too happy to oblige), which came with scrambled eggs made with double cream. Diet starts tomorrow!

THINGS TO DO

Being just minutes from the centre of St Albans means you can nip into town for a mooch around the boutique shops, cafés and restaurants, explore the museums (including the nearby Verulamium Museum with its famous hypocaust mosaic) and discover more about the Roman history of the city, or check out the impressive Cathedral and Abbey.

A short drive away, there’s Hatfield House, and for kids, Willows Activity Farm is close by, as is the Making of Harry Potter Warner Bros Studio Tour.

St Michael’s Manor is equally a popular option for those looking to get out and about in London but stay out of the city as it’s a speedy whizz into the Capital in just 20 minutes from the local train stations.

GOOD TO KNOW

Accessible rooms are available on the ground floor of the garden wing with wheelchair access, a walk-in shower with seat, rails and cord alarm, as well as a deaf alarm on request.

Bringing the family? There’s a children’s menu (and even a children’s afternoon tea) available, and z-beds and cots can be added to larger rooms and suites and charged at no extra cost. Pets, however are not currently permitted in the hotel rooms, so you’ll have to leave your four-legged friends at home this time. But keep your eyes peeled as there are plans to make a number of rooms pet friendly.

And, if you’re arriving the eco-friendly way, there are electric car charging pods in the car park for use by hotel guests.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

It’s a city break in the guise of a country retreat and a real hidden gem at that. A stay here feels special and luxurious without being overwhelming or stuffy as some country house hotels can be. There’s a really relaxed and informal air about the place, and the staff are warm, welcoming and helpful, which adds to that. For a stylish staycation that offers an oasis of calm with a cultural hub within easy reach, St Michael’s Manor is an attractively easy win.

THE DAMAGE

The price for an Executive Suite ranges from £320 per night (room only) to £473 per night (for dinner, bed and breakfast). Bed and breakfast rates are also available at £383 per night.

If you’re booking dinner separately it will set you back £45.50 per person for three courses, with whites and reds starting at £34 a bottle and glasses from £10.

To find out more or to book a stay at St Michaels Manor Hotel, click here.