This elegant hotel in the rural surrounds of lively St Albans offers a grown-up getaway – think sophisticated Asian dining, a cocktail bar worthy of London’s best postcodes and an award-winning spa. I checked in for a closer inspection.

THE LOWDOWN

It may look like a contemporary country house hotel but Sopwell House actually dates back to the 17th century and was also once home to Lord Mountbatten – rumour has it Prince Phillip’s parents got engaged in the gardens here.

Just just 26 miles from London (and a swift cab ride from St Albans Station), Sopwell is the perfect get-away-from-it-all retreat, within its own 12-acre grounds, complete with Japanese-style lilypond, gazebo, scuptures and giant deckchairs. There are 127 rooms including 16 privately gated and uniquely designed one-bed, studio and duplex mews suites, as well as six newly refurbished Corner suites within the main hotel.

There are two restaurants – The Asian inspired Omboo and a more relaxed brasserie – as well as the light-filled Conservatory Lounge and sophisticated Octagon Bar. But the showstopper has to be The Club at Cottonmill, which is exclusive to members and suite guests or guests on a Club package.

THE VIBE

As soon as you step through the front doors, Sopwell House feels chic and calming. The light and airy reception atrium, is filled with contemporary décor and art, intermingled with cosy fireside seating and original features.

The boutique hotel vibes continue through the botanical-inspired Omboo restaurant – think tropical wallpaper, low lighting and coppery hues – and the Octagon Bar features a large seating area with a pleasing terracotta and jade green colour palette (which only a pro designer could pull off with this much aplomb), as well as charming window seats overlooking the gardens, a feature wall with enormous fireplace and a quirky octagonal cubby hole with unique plaster mouldings on the walls. When we arrived guests were enjoying afternoon tea in here with their lawn views. The bar itself oozes all the luxury of a top London haunt, with leather stools and Gatsby-esque vintage accents.

The Conservatory and breakfast area feel fresh and bright, whilst the deep green corridors adorned with art, wind labyrinth-like up to the rooms and suites, which sit at the far corners of the hotel.

PILLOW TALK

Our Corner Suite was stunningly decorated in muted aqua and gold tones – again featuring that unmistakeable designer’s touch – and whilst not enormous (who needs that much room anyway?), it made perfect use of the space. The King-size bed with its statement headboard made for a dreamy (sorry!) night’s sleep. The living area was ideal for lounging whilst poring over glossy magazines and sipping on a complementary (suites only) award-winning Sopwell House London Dry gin from the striking mini bar (which even featured a pull out cutting board to prep your slice of choice!).

And, the built-in covered seats on the heated balcony provided views over the grounds, yet total privacy thanks to some subtly postitioned grasses planted along the edges. The bijou bathroom featured a standalone contemporary bath, a walk-in shower, and was elegantly decorated with marble-effect stone, wood panelling and greenery. Elemis toiletries and fluffy robes and slippers topped off the pampering vibes.

SCOFF & QUAFF

A pre-dinner drink in the Octagon Bar added a real sense of occasion to the evening. The menu made for some intriguing reading, with 12 signature cocktails based around a timeline of the hotel’s history, dating back to 1140 when Sopwell Priory was first founded by the Benedictine order (the one for this event is called Ale, Ale, Honey, and includes Dom Benedictine combined with ginger ale and honey cordial).

I plumped for one of the classics – a Clover Club with gin, egg white and raspberry, which was beautifully vibrant, and presented on a octagonal coaster inscribed with drinking quotes from historical figures. There was also a good range of non and low alcohol cocktails, Champagnes, wines, beers, spirits and liquers, as well as bar snacks.

Through to dinner and the dimly lit, yet lively and opulent Omboo – a feast for the senses. There’s a buzzing atmosphere thanks to the music and chatter from other dinner guests – enough background noise so as not to be earwigging on our neighbours, but not so loud that we can’t hold our own conversation comfortably. Omboo’s Asian dining concept is inspired by the Spice Routes of the Far East, with carefully curated sharing platters and dishes that come out as soon as they’re ready.

You can opt for one of three set menus – there’s the Silk (a vegan menu), Classic, or Omboo menus, ranging from £58 to £108 per person based on two sharing. Or you can simply order à la carte, with the menu divided into nibbles, salads, sushi, farm, ocean, field, fillers and desserts. Being a vegetarian (and incredibly indecisive!), I ordered the Silk menu so that I could try a bit of everything, and my husband supplemented it with some of the meat and fish dishes that caught his eye.

We definitely had an eyes-bigger-than-our-stomachs moment as our tiny table filled up until brimming over with beautiful and vibrant looking dishes of everything from avocado sushi rolls to exotic mushroom salad and oriental olive fried rice. And that was before my husband’s Wagyu Beef – sizzled to perfection on a hot platter – and miso-glazed black cod arrived, both of which he described as sensational.

The fragrant flavour combinations and textures – think lightly crisp tempura mushrooms, and salt and pepper crumble topped vegetables – worked in perfect harmony. We asked the restaurant manager to recommend something from the Sake list to pair with it, and the subtly sparkling Akashi-Tai Junmai Ginjo perfectly complemented, without overpowering, those elegant flavours.

For dessert we shared the platter which was included in the Silk menu, and featured a comforting sago pudding, fruity mango panna cotta (not for the veggies), a fragrant almond cake with jasmine sorbet and the most incredible pineapple and coconut sorbet.

The buffet breakfast in the morning was welcomed after round two at the spa, with its array of healthier options such as bircher muesli, seeds, goji berries, and honeycomb, as well as cooked eggs, bacon and all the trimmings, plus pastries and breads to fuel us up for a day out in St Albans.

THE SPA

Ahh the spa… this really is the star of the show. The main area, Cottonmill, features state-of-the-art fitness facilities, a 14m indoor swimming pool, sauna and steam room, as well as a signature treatment list. But, just wait until you see The Club at Cottonmill – only suite guests and members are allowed access to this inner sanctum, which underwent a fabulous renovation just a few years ago and is simply stunning.

On entry we were given FitBit-style bracelets to wear throughout, which allowed us, as suite guests, access into The Club at Cottonmill, by scanning them on the door keypads, which pop up with a personalised greeting – very Minority Report!

On the main floor there’s a salt steam room, relaxation area with swing chairs around a contemporary fireplace and an organic sauna, all overlooking the beautifully calming Japanese-style spa gardens with their cabanas, water features, firepits, outdoor shower and not one, but three hot tubs. Then there’s the indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy pool, where you can take a dip indoors then press a button to see the glass screen move back and open up the outdoor pool. Guests were happily ordering Champagne and cocktails to their hot tubs and cabanas via QR codes on the coffee tables, and we could also help ourselves at the continually refreshed herbal tea and cucumber water station.

Sopwell House spa relaxation room — The futuristic pods in the Deep Relaxation Room

Upstairs offered even more calming vibes, with lounger seating, a botanical steam room and a panoramic sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the hotel grounds. Plus the deep relaxation room felt seriously futuristic with colour-changing pods that vibrated with calming music for a chromo-sonic sensation. The Club at Cottonmill even features its own private changing rooms with extra robes and slippers.

All spa guests can take advantage of the extensive treatment list, use the relaxing sitting room, the salon for manis and pedis and The Pantry – an elegant space within the spa facilities, which offers light lunches and drinks.

I didn’t want to leave – so much so that we managed to sneak in another visit before breakfast. This is definitely one for spa-lovers’ bucket lists.

OUT & ABOUT

You’re literally minutes from the centre of St Albans here with its High Street and indie shops, cafés and restaurants, as well as a great clutch of pubs. Dive into some culture at the Museum + Gallery, discover some local history at the Verulamium Museum, or catch a show at The Alban Arena or OVO Roman Theatre in the summer months. The cathedral is worth exploring too and hosts a range of live music, events and exhibitions through the year. A short drive away, there’s also Hatfield House, as is the Making of Harry Potter Warner Bros Studio Tour if you do have the kids (or just a big kid) in tow.

DOGS, KIDS & ACCESSIBILITY

Coming with the kids? Some rooms do have sofa beds and can accommodate children, plus there are kids’ menus available in the brasserie, however Omboo isn’t particularly suitable for kids (unless they have super refined tastes!) and children aren’t permitted in the spa (apart from over Christmas when the majority of family bookings tend to be).

Whilst there are no dog-friendly rooms here, guide dogs can be accommodated, and the Ground Floor Mews Suites are accessible.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Those looking for a special break to mark a birthday or anniversary won’t be disappointed by Sopwell House, from the luxurious spa to the elegant décor and dinner that offers something a little different.

Not for: If you’re after a quick stopover or a family getaway where the kids will be well catered for and entertained, Sopwell House won’t be your first choice – this is a sophisticated and grown-up escape.

The damage: The room rate for the Corner suites, where we stayed (including access to The Club at Cottonmill and breakfast) starts at £699 per night. Dinner at Omboo costs from £58 – £108 pp for the set menus, with bottles of sake (wine and cocktails are available too) at around the £50 mark.

Sopwell House, Cottonmill Lane, St Albans, Hertfordshire AL1 2HQ; 01727 864477

Review: Sopwell House, St Albans

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