THE LOWDOWN

This beautifully refurbished 17th century thatched inn in the pretty Bedfordshire village of Felmersham, near the River Great Ouse, is a picture-postcard image of a proper country pub. It’s run by childhood friends (who grew up together nearby), Pete and JJ, plus their wives, Connie and Laura. Pete is the creative genius in the kitchen, whilst JJ and Laura run the partner business, Wild Berry Farm, which has been in his family since the 1960s and now supplies meat to the pub for an authentic farm-to-table experience.

the owners of the sun inn felmersham serving food around a table in a rustic barn

The farm also has a Lakeside wedding venue which offers six dates per year (catered for by Pete’s team from the pub, of course) and the pair run pub nights at the farm, too, serving 100% beef burgers and more, sourced from Wild Berry’s very happy Herefordshire herd.

THE VIBE

We arrived on a Friday evening and the pub was buzzing with lively conversation and packed out with locals and visitors enjoying a pint and some bar snacks as they decompressed from their week. The stunning yellow stone façade and thatched roof bring a Cotswolds-like feel to the place and the character speaks for itself with subtle decorative touches that simply enhance the existing features. The staff are friendly and welcoming (regardless of whether you’re a local or a newbie).

Pete explains how The Sun has really become embedded within the local community, having hosted weddings, christenings and funerals, and how customers congregate here to both commiserate and celebrate life’s ups and downs. This is a truly independent family business and a real hub of village life, which only made me wish I lived close enough to call it my local (*starts scanning Right Move immediately).

PILLOW TALK

The Sun felmersham bedroom — The mezzanine bedroom

We stayed in one of the two beautiful boutique rooms, which were painstakingly restored just a year ago. Pete and JJ employed local craftspeople and used sustainable materials to ensure a seriously high spec finish throughout. And no expense has been spared or detail overlooked – from the brass fixtures and fittings, to the exposed beams retaining the wonky charm of the property, and the eco friendly lighting which turns on as you enter the room or walk up the stairs.

The Sun felmersham kitchen dining roo, — The kitchenette and dining table in Dawn

Access to the rooms is via an external staircase around the back of the pub, and our room (or suite!), Dawn (the other is called Dusk), is the jewel in the crown. Over two floors, it features its own living and dining area, complete with granite-topped kitchenette, Artframe TV, proper coffee machine and sofa-bed for kids or additional guests. Fresh milk in a glass bottle, (plus mini oat milk pods – they’ve thought of everything), and juices filled the fridge, whilst homemade shortbread awaited us on arrival, as well as snacks and plenty of coffee pods and teabags.

The Sun felmersham bathroom — The elegant bathroom

The Sun inn felmersham freestanding copper bath Dawn room — The freestanding copper bath – the star of the show

Down the corridor there’s an enormous and elegant bathroom, with a walk-in-shower and double sink, plus spa-like toiletries to enjoy. Then, up the spiral stairwell (duck if you’re tall!) to a gorgeously cosy dressing area with fluffy robes hanging on a rail and… the highlight… a freestanding copper bath, leading up to a mezzanine level bedroom. A hypnos bed, neutral tones and calming lighting set the boutique hotel tone, whilst decorative and thoughtful details – a cubby hole here, a fragrant pillow spray there – all add to the feel of being in our own private retreat.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Whilst some rather tasty sounding snacks are available in the bar, the main foodie event happens in the dining room – a gorgeously rustic and low-lit space with beams and a roaring fire centrepiece. Far from ‘pub grub’ or ‘á la carte’ (you won’t find burgers or fish and chips in here), there are two dining menus – The Farmer’s Table (for meat eaters – my husband) and The Greengrocer’s Table (for veggies – me).

Both tasting menus feature five courses (plus an optional cheese course) which encompass the farm-to-fork ethos that runs through the veins of this family business. Dishes are created using local produce, from Wild Berry Farm meat to in-season veg from friendly neighbouring suppliers, which are whipped into stunning dishes by Pete and his team. You can read more about his cooking in our interview here.

Dining table set out with food and wine — A peek at what you can expect to be served in the Dining Room

We started with a G&T from the bar, tempted as we were by the Farmer’s Tipples menu. For a pub that really punches above its weight on the foodie front, there’s not a hint of that gastropub snobbery here. We enjoyed a chat with our friendly waitress – who incidentally has an agricultural background, and her partner works on the farm with JJ, so she really knows her stuff about the food and produce. She asked when we’d like to start with our first course, so the evening could be paced perfectly for us. We ordered a bottle of Pinot Noir and prepared to tuck in.

First up was a warm hunk of freshly baked sourdough bread with butter and (for the meat eaters) chicken salt. I had to be careful not to devour all of it to save room for what was to come. Next we both enjoyed creamed Maris Pipers with a whole roasted shallot – soft and caramelised – smothered in a delightfully savoury cep sauce. Talk about elevating the humble onion!

The Sun felmersham plate of food — The Wild Berry Duck and Pancetta

My husband’s seared tuna was matched with my seared kohlrabi, both served with fresh watercress and a zingy, palette cleansing ponzu dressing. On to the ‘main’ and our near matching plates featured confit Wild Berry duck and pancetta for my husband, and confit truffle squash with Raclette for myself, both served with raisin purée and Cavolo Nero. It was so refreshing to see equal effort being made with the meat-free dishes, from the high quality ingredients right down to the near identical plating. A rare treat for an often overlooked veggie.

Dessert was a Quark cake (like a baked cheesecake) with figs and Felmersham honey – just dreamy. My only regret? Not leaving space for the cheese course. We’ll have to go back again for that.

Before we dragged our stuffed selves up to bed, we ordered our breakfast for the next morning. ‘Anything you want’ was the response when we asked what was on the menu. We didn’t regret choosing eggs benedict (and florentine), when it arrived on a tray to our room, served on doorstop sourdough slices and slathered in lashings of rich Hollandaise. We had no trouble devouring the lot, washed down with a coffee and juice in our own little private dining room. Heavenly.

OUT & ABOUT

If you like walking and pretty rural villages you’re in the right spot. Felmersham and its neighbours – Harrold, Pavenham, Oakley, Turvey are all stunning, with chocolate box cottages, wonky bridges over the river and acres of green space to roam. The Harrold Odell Country Park is ideal if you want a mapped out walk around a nature reserve. Olney is a pretty town that’s great for mooching around the local indie shops and cafés and adrenaline junkies can get their fill of motorsport at Santa Pod Raceway and PalmerSport or watersports at Box End Park. And you can always venture into Bedford, which is just a 15-minute drive with all it’s amenities from riverside restaurants to cinemas, theatres and museums.

GOOD TO KNOW

Our room, Dawn, featured a sofa bed which would be perfect for a couple of kids to bunk on, if you’re coming as a family. The tasting menus aren’t overly child friendly – unless you have a teen with particularly refined taste – but they could fill up on bar food and they do Sunday lunch, too, as well as the food truck on select dates. Unfortunately the rooms aren’t accessible as they are up an external staircase and, being a historic listed building, it doesn’t have a lift.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Those who enjoy the quality of a boutique country hotel, but not the hefty price tag, won’t be disappointed by The Sun, thanks to the consideration and care that has gone into every detail, from the stunning rooms to the lovingly crafted menus, which create a truly memorable experience for every guest.

Not for: If you want the convenience of round-the-clock room service and all the bells and whistles of a five-star hotel, you won’t find that at The Sun. Guests come here for the breathing space, the countryside walks, the friendly local welcome and the farm-to-fork dining, which underpins it. If you don’t buy into that, this is not the place for you.

The damage: Our room was priced at £315 for a Friday night (including breakfast) – great value in comparison to a boutique hotel – whilst dinner was really reasonable for the quality at just £55 (for meat) and £42 (for veggies).

To find out more or to book, visit The Sun Inn, Felmersham, Grange Rd, Felmersham, Bedford MK43 7EU

Review: The Sun Inn, Felmersham

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